"Well, obviously it's not soup anymore once you've done it," says Lily, "but it can have its basis in soup - if I deconstruct clam chowder, you wind up with potatoes and clams and celery and so on on a plate, arranged nicely, spiced correctly, and I turn the broth into a reduced cream sauce, but it's still clam chowder even though it isn't clam chowder, you know what I mean?"